Monster Trucks and Monkey Nuts

So, I thought maybe I’d run some nice fat rubber on the Karate Monkey. Monster-Truck tires. Because why not.

When I had the LBS build up the monkey originally, they told me not to go bigger than 2.1″ tires because of the straddle wire on the v-brakes. I’d catch a knob on the straddle wire, go over the bars, get a concussion, sue, etc.

Whatever.

So, I ordered a Maxxis Ardent 29 x 2.4 tire.

I tried to mount it up on the Monkey tonight. I was so excited. It cleared the straddle cable with a little room for mud.

IMG_20130130_192236

The LBS was full of crap. Everything is gonna be fine!

It also cleared the front derailer clamp, no problem (I’m using Monkey Nuts
).

IMG_20130130_192203

So, everything’s groovey, spinning, I’m thinking I’ll order another 2.4″ tire for the front, and then to rip up some muddy trails. Because I’m all bad-ass like that. (not really).

Then, I start fiddling with the gears.

Well, Shit.

When the front derailleur is in the low gear, the cage rubs the knobs on the tire. bad.

IMG_20130130_192904

So, I thinks to myself, I’ll run TWO sets of money nuts! That’ll fix ‘er!

Nope. Even all the way in the back of the drop outs, it still rubs the front derailleur cage.

So, it looks like I’m out of luck. I guess I’ll move this tire to the front, lick my wounds, and consider my options for the rear.

One thought on “Monster Trucks and Monkey Nuts

  1. Apertome

    Bummer. But, 2.1″ is more than adequate for serious trails, especially as a rear tire (a lot of MTB guys I know — myself included, although some of the others are far more serious than I am — intentionally ride with a fatter front tire than the rear). If the rear washes out, you can usually recover, but if the front washes out, you’re going down.

    Reply

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